Mexico - from Palenque to the bus to Mexico City
Well, first the answers are:
For fun
Went to see Mayan ruins and a jungle and hopefully some monkeys too
No
Well, let's get moving...
The bus drive took about 13 hours, but I slept most of the time...
Oct 18th
----------
We took a cab to "El Palchan" - hotels area close to the Mayan ruins of Palenque and hired some place for the night, and wandered a little in the jungle surrounding the place.
In the evening we went to the nearby tourist trap - a restaurant that has young bands perform there and later at night has a performance of fire-juggling. The food was somewhat disappointing and more expensive than we were used to, the performers were amateurs, but on the whole it was nice.
Oct 19th
-----------
Next day we walked the 4 km to the archeological site entrance.
On the way we saw a flying balloon and it was quite pretty – the colorful balloon on the green jungle background…
Well, the ruins were quite impressive – the most impressive in Mexico by then (hint, hint). And it was situated in a lovely jungle.
Anyway, after having very good few hours there, we separated – Chen caught a ride to the city, as it was her dad’s birthday, and Roy and I strolled through the jungle, hoping to see some howler monkeys.
We couldn’t find any monkeys, but it was nice all the same. And we found out that the archeological site has another whole section we weren’t aware of, and that part includes a beautiful stream and some gorgeous cascades. And we even saw a big Jesus lizard (the kind that when young can run on top of the water).
Well, we got back, met Chen and went on yet another jungle trip, but still no monkeys – though we did see pigs, a horse, sheep and lots and lots of vultures (a group of hundreds of them).
Later, after we got back, we went with Chen to show her the cascades. But the site was already closed and the guards wouldn’t let us in.
But Chen’s will-power proved to be much stronger than theirs and eventually they let us in, and one of the guards accompanied us. I thought he was making sure we don’t do anything stupid, but he suggested that we swim there though it’s forbidden. We refused…
Anyway, the cascades were really beautiful…
By the way, it was so hot and sticky all day that I took 3 showers!
Oct 20th
-----------
Next day we spent 5 hours in a bus, going to San Cristobel through an area of beautiful green hills. I would’ve hiked there gladly!!
Well, arriving on San Cristobel we tried the first guy offering a hostel, and it was good, so we stayed at his place… Casa Jardin.
Cool weather. So much cooler than in Palenque! Chen was so happy about it!
Oct 21st
------------
Most of this day was dedicated to wandering along the city, mainly in the market. It was a nice and relaxed day and we had a very good supper together with Meron – a nice Israeli from Eylon (Kibbutz near Naharia).
Oct 22nd
----------
We went to the Mayan medical center, and learned a little about how they cure their people (their main tools are prayers, pine leaves, chanting, candles, liquors and coca-cola).
After that we went to Chamula – a close village that retain most of its ancient traditions – people still wear traditional clothes and we saw Mayan healing ceremonies taking place inside their church.
It was interesting though I was choked by the smoke of the burning pine leaves…
Well, after that we spend some time in their Sunday market, and in general had a very interesting time.
By the way, the Mayan still believe that the camera steals part of their souls.
And again, we ended the day having a good dinner with Meron.
Oct 23rd
----------
Next day, we wanted to go to a place called Canyon Sumidero, but since I didn’t feel good and had to have a toilet close at hand, we postponed it for the time being.
Roy and Chen went to see a Mayan healing ceremony in the center we visited the day before (we visited the center on Sunday so there weren’t any ceremonies going on) and I stayed and napped...
Later I felt better, we had a nice dinner, and went to see some local performance – apparently the whole time we’ve been to San Cristobel there was a local festival going on, but we got there just when it was over and saw the crowd leave.
Oct 24th
----------
Today we did go to canyon Sumidero.
And it was amazing, though Roy hates this place.
You take a speed boat, and start along the river, and in about 5 minutes you’re between 200 m high cliffs!! Very dramatic scenery. So lovely!
Anyway, we even saw a big iguana, lots of crocodiles, and tons of birds.
And, finally, at last, I saw monkeys J
But why does Roy hate the place? While taking photos, the camera suddenly asked him to either format the memory card or turn off the camera.
And the card had about 100 photos on it!
It’s so annoying!! At least we had my camera as a backup (I insisted upon using both cameras all the time).
Well, in the evening we managed to get to the square on time, and saw a local dances performance, but it was quite boring so we didn’t stay long…
Oct 25th-27th
----------------
Next day we left San Cristobel, aiming to an area called Lagos de Montebello.
We got there, hired a beautiful-2-stories-wooden-cabin and for 2 days explored the area and saw so many amazing lagoons!!
The first afternoon we tried to find some cave the guy who rented us the cabin told us about. We found a very nice little lake, and nearby were a few Mexican families, eating and relaxing.
A few of the girls came to us and started talking with us, and said that the cave is real close, in some direction. We started going in that direction and after a short while they joined us, saying they’re going to the cave.
So we followed.
Into the bushes.
Until they said there are no paths, no trails, nothing. And they trust in god to lead them. We left them, went back to the dirt road and carried on. But later, another passerby directed us to the same place. So we tried for a little while and gave it up.
Next day we had a very good hike (even if Chen was about to burst at us for not knowing where we’re going) that took us in a nice forest, through a few gorgeous lagoons to one big lagoon where we even swam a little.
The following morning we managed to find a cave (not the one we were after the first day). It was an open cave full of water, and it was indeed a beautiful place. Full of mosquitoes, but beautiful.
Here, Roy’s camera ruined yet another memory card L
And afterwards we left the area, on our way to Puerto Escondido.
But on the way we stopped to visit the magnificent waterfalls at El Chiflon. We spent about 2 hours there, walking along the beautiful stream and the waterfalls were so spectacular!! And we saw 2 iguanas, lots of beautiful butterflies, and two mating lizards. Highly recommended! El chiflon - not the mating lizards…
Oct 28th
----------
After another night drive, we arrived at Puerto Escondido in the morning.
A British guy waited there, telling us he has “the best place in town”. Well, we decided to give it a chance and took a cab to his place (he went there with his scooter).
The problem was that on the way there we found out we forgot my little bag (with the camera, my diary etc.) at the bus station.
We quickly turned the cab around, and went back to the bus station, where by a miracle my bag was still waiting, untouched!!!
We went to the hostel, and indeed it was very nice and we decided to stay.
We wandered around a little, went down to the beach - a nice little bay with about 100 m stretch of clean sand between two rock cliffs, swam a little in the hostel’s pool, went to the market and had a nice time.
Later, in the afternoon we decided to see a “pelota mixteca” game. According to the lonely planet guide we had, every Saturday at 15:00 there’s a game going on in a village near by.
What is Pelota Mixteca? Well, it’s a ball game descended from the Maya… and that was all we knew at that time.
So we went to that village, and were told where to get off the bus, and indeed there was a ball game already going on there, so we hurried in only to discover that it is soccer… well, we asked around and found out that the mixteca court is just behind us, but no one knows when they play it.
That’s for trusting Lonely Planet…
But we decided that if we’re here, we might as well watch…
And after some 45 minutes, a pelota mixteca player showed up, and we talked to him for about an hour. Apparently, it was some kind of soccer finals, and that was the reason for the absence of the other players… another group of tourists showed up, asked about the game and went disappointed.
We were about to give up ourselves and go back to town with him, when another player showed up, and Pedro went to bring the ball.
By the time he came back there were 3 players.
Anyway, they showed us a little how they play – it’s a little like tennis, only you hit a 1-kg-ball with a special glove that weighs 5-6 kg.
After a little while, they let us play! And it was so much fun! And Roy was quite good and Pedro even suggested that he comes to him for a whole year and he’ll make a professional player out of him (which would enable Roy to get a working visa to the US – as a professional player). Well, that afternoon turned to be a great adventure!
Oct 29th
----------
Well, Puerto Escondido is worldwide known for surfers. It is there you can find the “famous Mexican pipeline”.
Very famous.
Well, apparently there’s a beach there – Zicatela – where the waves form a pipeline big enough for surfers to surf into it.
But it’s quite dangerous for inexperienced surfers (underwater currents).
So early next day we took a boogie and went to the beach, to try our luck. But the sea was very calm. So we tried another beach, but the same story.
So we went back to the first one, and tried to surf. We spent about 40 minutes in the water, and gave it up.
We spent the day between the hostel, the market, and Zicatela beach (it was quite calm but we saw a surfer surf into the pipeline) and eventually went back to try and surf ourselves.
This time, a French surfer from our hostel (named Fabrice) joined us. But still, very few waves. Fabrice managed to surf a little, but we didn’t. He even let Roy try his own board, but there were too many surfers trying to surf on too few waves so we gave up on it after an hour or so.
Oct 30th
----------
Well, next day we spent mainly at the hostel – in pool, playing pool, playing cards etc. and by evening we took the night bus to Mexico City.
Well, in Mexico City we spend a couple of days, but I’ll leave it for the next post…
Have fun!
For fun
Went to see Mayan ruins and a jungle and hopefully some monkeys too
No
Well, let's get moving...
The bus drive took about 13 hours, but I slept most of the time...
Oct 18th
----------
We took a cab to "El Palchan" - hotels area close to the Mayan ruins of Palenque and hired some place for the night, and wandered a little in the jungle surrounding the place.
In the evening we went to the nearby tourist trap - a restaurant that has young bands perform there and later at night has a performance of fire-juggling. The food was somewhat disappointing and more expensive than we were used to, the performers were amateurs, but on the whole it was nice.
Oct 19th
-----------
Next day we walked the 4 km to the archeological site entrance.
On the way we saw a flying balloon and it was quite pretty – the colorful balloon on the green jungle background…
Well, the ruins were quite impressive – the most impressive in Mexico by then (hint, hint). And it was situated in a lovely jungle.
Anyway, after having very good few hours there, we separated – Chen caught a ride to the city, as it was her dad’s birthday, and Roy and I strolled through the jungle, hoping to see some howler monkeys.
We couldn’t find any monkeys, but it was nice all the same. And we found out that the archeological site has another whole section we weren’t aware of, and that part includes a beautiful stream and some gorgeous cascades. And we even saw a big Jesus lizard (the kind that when young can run on top of the water).
Well, we got back, met Chen and went on yet another jungle trip, but still no monkeys – though we did see pigs, a horse, sheep and lots and lots of vultures (a group of hundreds of them).
Later, after we got back, we went with Chen to show her the cascades. But the site was already closed and the guards wouldn’t let us in.
But Chen’s will-power proved to be much stronger than theirs and eventually they let us in, and one of the guards accompanied us. I thought he was making sure we don’t do anything stupid, but he suggested that we swim there though it’s forbidden. We refused…
Anyway, the cascades were really beautiful…
By the way, it was so hot and sticky all day that I took 3 showers!
Oct 20th
-----------
Next day we spent 5 hours in a bus, going to San Cristobel through an area of beautiful green hills. I would’ve hiked there gladly!!
Well, arriving on San Cristobel we tried the first guy offering a hostel, and it was good, so we stayed at his place… Casa Jardin.
Cool weather. So much cooler than in Palenque! Chen was so happy about it!
Oct 21st
------------
Most of this day was dedicated to wandering along the city, mainly in the market. It was a nice and relaxed day and we had a very good supper together with Meron – a nice Israeli from Eylon (Kibbutz near Naharia).
Oct 22nd
----------
We went to the Mayan medical center, and learned a little about how they cure their people (their main tools are prayers, pine leaves, chanting, candles, liquors and coca-cola).
After that we went to Chamula – a close village that retain most of its ancient traditions – people still wear traditional clothes and we saw Mayan healing ceremonies taking place inside their church.
It was interesting though I was choked by the smoke of the burning pine leaves…
Well, after that we spend some time in their Sunday market, and in general had a very interesting time.
By the way, the Mayan still believe that the camera steals part of their souls.
And again, we ended the day having a good dinner with Meron.
Oct 23rd
----------
Next day, we wanted to go to a place called Canyon Sumidero, but since I didn’t feel good and had to have a toilet close at hand, we postponed it for the time being.
Roy and Chen went to see a Mayan healing ceremony in the center we visited the day before (we visited the center on Sunday so there weren’t any ceremonies going on) and I stayed and napped...
Later I felt better, we had a nice dinner, and went to see some local performance – apparently the whole time we’ve been to San Cristobel there was a local festival going on, but we got there just when it was over and saw the crowd leave.
Oct 24th
----------
Today we did go to canyon Sumidero.
And it was amazing, though Roy hates this place.
You take a speed boat, and start along the river, and in about 5 minutes you’re between 200 m high cliffs!! Very dramatic scenery. So lovely!
Anyway, we even saw a big iguana, lots of crocodiles, and tons of birds.
And, finally, at last, I saw monkeys J
But why does Roy hate the place? While taking photos, the camera suddenly asked him to either format the memory card or turn off the camera.
And the card had about 100 photos on it!
It’s so annoying!! At least we had my camera as a backup (I insisted upon using both cameras all the time).
Well, in the evening we managed to get to the square on time, and saw a local dances performance, but it was quite boring so we didn’t stay long…
Oct 25th-27th
----------------
Next day we left San Cristobel, aiming to an area called Lagos de Montebello.
We got there, hired a beautiful-2-stories-wooden-cabin and for 2 days explored the area and saw so many amazing lagoons!!
The first afternoon we tried to find some cave the guy who rented us the cabin told us about. We found a very nice little lake, and nearby were a few Mexican families, eating and relaxing.
A few of the girls came to us and started talking with us, and said that the cave is real close, in some direction. We started going in that direction and after a short while they joined us, saying they’re going to the cave.
So we followed.
Into the bushes.
Until they said there are no paths, no trails, nothing. And they trust in god to lead them. We left them, went back to the dirt road and carried on. But later, another passerby directed us to the same place. So we tried for a little while and gave it up.
Next day we had a very good hike (even if Chen was about to burst at us for not knowing where we’re going) that took us in a nice forest, through a few gorgeous lagoons to one big lagoon where we even swam a little.
The following morning we managed to find a cave (not the one we were after the first day). It was an open cave full of water, and it was indeed a beautiful place. Full of mosquitoes, but beautiful.
Here, Roy’s camera ruined yet another memory card L
And afterwards we left the area, on our way to Puerto Escondido.
But on the way we stopped to visit the magnificent waterfalls at El Chiflon. We spent about 2 hours there, walking along the beautiful stream and the waterfalls were so spectacular!! And we saw 2 iguanas, lots of beautiful butterflies, and two mating lizards. Highly recommended! El chiflon - not the mating lizards…
Oct 28th
----------
After another night drive, we arrived at Puerto Escondido in the morning.
A British guy waited there, telling us he has “the best place in town”. Well, we decided to give it a chance and took a cab to his place (he went there with his scooter).
The problem was that on the way there we found out we forgot my little bag (with the camera, my diary etc.) at the bus station.
We quickly turned the cab around, and went back to the bus station, where by a miracle my bag was still waiting, untouched!!!
We went to the hostel, and indeed it was very nice and we decided to stay.
We wandered around a little, went down to the beach - a nice little bay with about 100 m stretch of clean sand between two rock cliffs, swam a little in the hostel’s pool, went to the market and had a nice time.
Later, in the afternoon we decided to see a “pelota mixteca” game. According to the lonely planet guide we had, every Saturday at 15:00 there’s a game going on in a village near by.
What is Pelota Mixteca? Well, it’s a ball game descended from the Maya… and that was all we knew at that time.
So we went to that village, and were told where to get off the bus, and indeed there was a ball game already going on there, so we hurried in only to discover that it is soccer… well, we asked around and found out that the mixteca court is just behind us, but no one knows when they play it.
That’s for trusting Lonely Planet…
But we decided that if we’re here, we might as well watch…
And after some 45 minutes, a pelota mixteca player showed up, and we talked to him for about an hour. Apparently, it was some kind of soccer finals, and that was the reason for the absence of the other players… another group of tourists showed up, asked about the game and went disappointed.
We were about to give up ourselves and go back to town with him, when another player showed up, and Pedro went to bring the ball.
By the time he came back there were 3 players.
Anyway, they showed us a little how they play – it’s a little like tennis, only you hit a 1-kg-ball with a special glove that weighs 5-6 kg.
After a little while, they let us play! And it was so much fun! And Roy was quite good and Pedro even suggested that he comes to him for a whole year and he’ll make a professional player out of him (which would enable Roy to get a working visa to the US – as a professional player). Well, that afternoon turned to be a great adventure!
Oct 29th
----------
Well, Puerto Escondido is worldwide known for surfers. It is there you can find the “famous Mexican pipeline”.
Very famous.
Well, apparently there’s a beach there – Zicatela – where the waves form a pipeline big enough for surfers to surf into it.
But it’s quite dangerous for inexperienced surfers (underwater currents).
So early next day we took a boogie and went to the beach, to try our luck. But the sea was very calm. So we tried another beach, but the same story.
So we went back to the first one, and tried to surf. We spent about 40 minutes in the water, and gave it up.
We spent the day between the hostel, the market, and Zicatela beach (it was quite calm but we saw a surfer surf into the pipeline) and eventually went back to try and surf ourselves.
This time, a French surfer from our hostel (named Fabrice) joined us. But still, very few waves. Fabrice managed to surf a little, but we didn’t. He even let Roy try his own board, but there were too many surfers trying to surf on too few waves so we gave up on it after an hour or so.
Oct 30th
----------
Well, next day we spent mainly at the hostel – in pool, playing pool, playing cards etc. and by evening we took the night bus to Mexico City.
Well, in Mexico City we spend a couple of days, but I’ll leave it for the next post…
Have fun!
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